I’ve always liked the European custom of taking  vacation for the entire month of August.  Oh, there are technical problems when everyone takes the same month off – traffic, and who gets to stay home and feed the cat.  But, I think people are better off  if they get a good long vacation.  We Americans tend to take vacation a few days at a time – and then try to cram as much as possible into that time.  I am so guilty of this!  No relaxation, no re-creation.   So the best I can do is avoid the ‘Busman’s Holiday” and do something that gets me out of the studio and away from my sewing machine.  

This August I  spent three weekends working at a local Renaissance faire.   I sing with the Ravenrook Consort.  (our new CD is now available from:  http://www.ravenrook.com/revel/cd.jsp  )   I also demonstrated bobbin lace making which I never get around to doing at home.   I truly enjoyed the parade of happy faire patrons in their fanciful costumes which included every kind of corset you can imagine!  ( I had to get around to corsetry sooner or later….)  

I have made all the corsets for our group – which is a good thing, as we are sometimes in costume for 8-14 hours.  Other than the usual fatigue, I didn’t hear any complaints.   A well fitted corset should not be uncomfortable.  

I  can’t imagine some of the faire patrons were quite as lucky.  There were so many under boned or plastic boned bustiers – so sad and saggy and not at all flattering.   Large or small, anyone can look great and be comfortable in a custom made, well fitted corset.    Beware, there are corset makers who claim to do custom work but they are merely plugging your measurements into stock pattern sizes.  If it sounds like too good a deal – it probably is.  Caveat Emptor. 

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not a ‘historical snob’ when it comes to corsets – I love to do fantasy, and fashion, pirates and fairies, steampunk and fetish, saloon girls and bar wenches!   But I am a ‘fitting snob’.  If it looks good and is comfortable then I’ve done my job.  

Wishing you all restful and happy vacations,

Marie

Just a quick note for those who enjoy all things
Goth that My friend and client Jillian Venters has
a new book: Gothic Charm School: An Essential Guide
For Goths And Those Who Love Them. An absolutely
‘Charming’ read – and maybe some good advice on corsets and dress. Available where all good books are sold.
Gothic-Charm-School.com

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Chicago and see the ‘Chic Chicago’ exhibition at the Chicago History Museum. My friend, who went with me, teaches fashion history. We try to make it to as many good clothing and fashion exhibits as possible. Seattle, sadly, is not a good venue for fashion history. So when we travel, we try to see as many displays as we can.

‘Chic Chicago’ was originally staged at the Fashion Institute Technology in New York. It will end it’s run in Chicago on July 26, 2009.The focus of the exhibit is couture fashion owned and worn byfamous and influential Chicago women. The earliest piece is an evening gown – attributed to Worth – from 1861. And it continues through present day with a gown donated by Oprah Winfrey. These are exceptional pieces – some familiar to the fashion historian – such as the Paul Poiret “Sorbet” gown and a Schiaparelli evening suit. Some, are less familiar designers, and what a treat it is to see their work!

Just as interesting as the fashions are the women who wore them. You get to know a bit about these ladies and their lives and how they were important to Chicago – and how important Chicago is to the rest of the world. It truly is more than the ’Second City’.

As an extra treat, there was a display of Bertha Honore’ Palmer’s personal wardrobe. And as we were staying at the Palmer House Hotel ( a wedding gift to Bertha from her husband, Potter) – we learned a lot about this fascinating and influential woman. I can’t do credit to her story here, but I encourage you to look her up – we tend to brush off the fashionable women of the Edwardian Era – but Bertha Palmer took every ball and ran with it – from the Woman’s pavilion at the world’s Columbian Exposition of 1893, to her patronage of Oscar Wild in her London salon, to her real estate developments in Sarasota Florida, this was a woman of power and style. (and she did most of it in a corset… sorry I had to get corsets in there somewhere! I always flinch when I hear ‘oh I could never do that in a corset!’ – well maybe they couldn’t but most women did – for five hundred years – and did it well. )

It would be interesting to compare the lives of Bertha Palmer and Oprah Winfrey. I’m sure someone must have done this and found many interesting similarities.

I recommend the accompanying book – Chic Chicago Couture Treasures From the Chicago History Museum by Timothy A. Long and Dr. Valerie Steele – for the fabulous pictures and thumbnail biographies of both the designers and the owners of the fashions. Also, Bertha Honore’ Palmer by Timothy A. Long. www.chicagohistory.org

So the great spirits of the blog tell me that when I don’t have much of anything new to say I can post new corset photos – here are two recent creations both done with beaded and embroidered lace overlays – they are so pretty done that way!

Corsets – Historical Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen, 2008, Costume and Fashion Press

One of two good books on corsetry to come out in 2008, this book is not at all what I had expected. First, I must admit that I glanced at the cover and got a very poor first impression. Why would anyone choose that corset picture for the cover – it was obviously an odd ‘hybrid’ style, and the stitching is crooked. (oh silly me!) After reading the book, I found out that the orange (red) and black corset is actually a vintage piece, dating from the 1860’s, heavily altered, with a busk from an earlier period. Thus my confusion.

Each corset featured in this book is an interesting study – none of them are typical for their time periods and each one has something to teach us. There are eclectic examples from the 18th and 19th centuries – and even a doll’s corset. This is a great read for those who love ‘fashion archeology’. I enjoyed it very much and learned a lot – once I got past the cover art.
But, If you are looking for a ‘how to’ book, to help you make a typical corset for a certain time period, this isn’t the book for you. There are patterns for each corset – more to explain exactly what you are looking at – much as in Janet Arnold’s books – Patterns of Fashion. These patterns can help you in drafting your own patterns, but they are not intended to be ‘easy to use’ patterns for beginning corset makers.
With that in mind, enjoy this book – it is wonderful to see a scholarly work on interesting and unusual corsets.

The Basics of Corset Building – A handbook for Beginners by Linda Sparks, USA edition 2009, St. Martin’s Press

This book, originally published in Canada, is by Linda Sparks of Farthingale Corset Supplies. And, unlike me, who has threatened to write a ‘how to’ book on corset making for years, she actually did it and has done a very credible job with a complex subject.

Gentle readers! be advised that corset making is not for beginning sewers. I’ve seen the frustration of someone out of their depth struggling with a too complex subject. Many skilled tailors won’t tackle a corset. But if you are of the right mind set – and have time and money to spend – it can be a very rewarding project.

That said, this book can be of great assistance in corset making. The sections on special tools and hardware are very good. The author goes into detail on the special skills needed, and give 2 good methods for constructing corsets. (neither one of them are what I use, but it’s nice to know that I’ll have something to add to the discussion when I get around to writing my book!)

What you won’t find in this book are patterns, as commercial patterns are recommended. And you won’t find the detailed instruction needed to fit a corset properly. Her fitting method is cumbersome, and she spends a bit too much time making excuses for why spending time on fitting is so necessary. If a sewer hasn’t learned the value of fitting, then they must’ loose one turn and go back to the beginning’!

Here are some suggestions:
-if you are not good at pattern drafting or alteration – have a custom pattern made. It will get you at least 90% of the way to a well fitted and comfortable corset.
-use a firm fabric for your fitting muslin – real muslin is too soft and stretchy.
-use the fitting techniques that I send out with the Indispensible Corset Fitting Aid (see the web page section on Corset Supplies) It will save several steps in the fitting process and is re-useable for many projects. You can’t do the fitting with just pins.
-Your first corset is a learning experience, and you will learn even more as you wear your corset – don’t expect a perfect corset on your first try.
-If you are not a patient person and always start your project the night before the event, this may not be the project for you. Accept it and move on.

So to wrap up, this is a good resource – you can learn a lot and build up new skills. I’m so glad that there is finally a book of this caliber. But, it is not an easy read, and it is not all inclusive. Corset making as we do it today has had to be re-invented – and as materials and tools improve, so do our methods. That could be why I like this work. There is always something new to learn, or a new puzzle to solve.

Well, I know it has been awhile.  We had a wonderful trip to Venice.  And it has taken a lot of time to get caught up and back to some semblance of ‘normal’.   Orders just keep coming in – recession or no recession!

I often get asked ‘what is the time frame is for having a corset made?’.   Unlike a lot of places, I don’t think it fair to keep a huge back log of work and make clients wait months –even years for their corset.  My average turnaround time in 4-6 weeks.  Sometimes less,  sometimes more, depending mostly on fitting schedules and volume.  I’m really very organized when it comes to work, and can give you an exact time frame.   If you are planning for a wedding, allow at the minimum 8 weeks before your wedding – or more!  And remember that if you are planning on wearing your corset as a foundation for your dress – your dress must for fit over the corset – so allow time for that too.

And, just as a reminder, I don’t keep any stock on hand – it’s more important to me to keep current with my custom work. 

Thanks,

Marie

So on to the Blogging:

Here is a series of book and magazine reviews.   There have been some wonderful new books released recently on corsets and corset related topics.   Hope these give you some great ideas. 

Gothic . Dark Glamour  by  Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park  - 2008 Yale University Press and FIT, NY, NY

This book is the companion piece to the recent show at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, which I was fortunate to see last October.    But, it is far more than just a catalogue of the displays.  In true Valerie Steele style  (not a secret that I am a great fan of her writing!),  she explores all aspects of what has become known as “Goth”.  A blend of history, pop culture, street fashion, and haute couture, this is a fascinating discussion of ‘what is Goth’ and why it is a valid part of a discussion of fashion history.

Corsets are a major element of Goth fashion.   I have a great time designing ‘Goth’ corsets – it is so much more than just ‘black’ with hardware.  I’ve done some great pieces and have currently developed a corset/waistcoat for men.  Fabulous with a black suit….

I’m giving this book a “must have” rating for anyone interested in corsetry, Goth culture, fashion design, and fashion history.  The photography is fabulous and inspiring – as is the text.  And it gets a ‘11’ on the inspiration scale.

Costume Maker Magazine   Issue #2  March 2009  www.Costumemakermagazine.com

This is the brain child of Selina Zawachi – and is remarkable, first, because of her age – she started this project at age 15 in 2007 – and secondly, because she has succeeded where so many have failed.  My bookshelves are littered with 1^st issues of Costume and vintage fashion themed magazines that died before a second issue. 

Selina has produced a slick and professional looking magazine geared toward cosplay and fantasy costumers.  The articles are  mostly on “how to” subjects – not too simplistic, not too advanced.   Subjects include: making fairy wings, chainmail, a simple cloak, and tipping your own corset bones.  (yea!  good information for corset makers  that encourages the use of ‘real’ materials – that will give you good results.  Brava! )   It also showcases costumer’s work through contests.  And – there are paper dolls…..I love paper dolls!

Go to the web page and buy the magazine – support this girl in her endeavor – I truly admire someone that focused and passionate about subject – I’m sure we have not heard the last from her.   

More reviews to come soon……

To corset or not to corset…..

Notes on dressing in Historical Costumes.

I love to play ‘dress up’! I always have, and I still love it. One of my favorite dress up activities is wearing historical costumes. They are fun to make, and to wear, and I have had many great times taking my costumes all over the world. Our travels have included England, Venice, Guam, Williamsburg VA, San Francisco CA, Ferndale CA, Victoria BC, all around the Northwest, and most recently, Cape May NJ. and Newport Rhode Island. So here is a short article for my friends in the various groups that I play with, to answer a question that I am often asked:

“Do I have to wear a corset?”

Many of us historical costume enthusiasts find it great fun to” Dress The Part”. We wear our historical costumes to parties, Renn. Faires , historical celebrations, re-enactments, shopping, teas, pretty much any place we can – why? Because it’s fun!

I’m often asked if it is necessary to have a corset for your costume. And, even though I am a corset maker, the answer is “No!”. You can wear an historical style dress, participate, and have a good time, and just wear your modern undergarments with your costumes with my blessing.

When the time comes that you want to ‘raise the bar’, make something a bit more complex, and dig a little deeper into the study of historical costuming – then you need to consider the proper underpinnings – corset, hoops, panniers, farthingales, bustles, and pads. These are the things that change the shape of a body and effect the proper silhouette so your costumes hang well, and look appropriate for the historical period you are trying to represent. They also make construction easier – there is a reason these are called foundation garments!

I want to talk specifically about corsets – and hopefully dispel some of those myths we have grown up with.

Myth #1 “I can’t wear a corset it’s just way too uncomfortable!”

I have made corsets for virtually hundreds of clients. One of the most common things I hear at the fitting is “Wow – this feels great – it’s much more comfortable that I expected! “ And – yes it is! – a well fitted corset should be comfortable. We are not Scarlet O’Hara (oh! don’t get me started….) – corsets for real women were not outrageously tight. Remember that a corset was common dress for over 400 yrs. Women had to live, work, and carry on their lives. Movies and magazines have done a great miss-service to the truth about wearing corsets. You can find a plethora of articles in historical print on the “evils of corset wearing”. This makes good copy, but it isn’t historical fact. For comparison, look at the articles that surface every time platform shoes come into fashion – I think you can see the pattern.

Myth #2 “Corsets are just for the upper classes”

Oh, wrong again. From the Renaissance to the early 1900’s, most all western women in anything but the lowest of classes wore some kind of stays – with a couple of minor exceptions. Unless you are playing the part of a beggar - or a bohemian libertine – or some such exception, you would effect the proper (but maybe not the most fashionable) silhouette for your time period.

Myth #3 “Men forced women to wear corsets – it’s degrading!”

Well, I could write a book on this one - and many have – let me refer you to anything by Valerie Steel - one of my favorite authors on the psychology of dress. Fashion history is far more complex than the so called “oppression of women”. One of the primary reasons to wear historical fashion is to learn more about how people actually lived – it is a fascinating subject, and one I never tire of exploring.

Myth #4 “ Corset are good to wear if you have a bad back”

I – am a corset maker and not a doctor – do not recommend wearing corsets for a bad back. You are much better off exercising and strengthening your muscles to keep your back strong. Even weight lifting belts are not recommended anymore, as they then to allow a person to strain their back rather than protecting the back. Using a corset for a brace will only make you dependent upon the brace. Other times when you shouldn’t wear a corset include gastrointestinal problems, pregnancy, if you are very young and still growing, or if you have osteoporosis.

Please apply your common sense.

There are many more ‘myths’ about corsets, but I will save those for another day.

I hope I have given you a little insight into corset wearing. Effecting the proper silhouette is the important factor. Be sure that your corset is a good fit – custom fitted corsets are the best - corsets cut directly from vintage patterns will rarely fit a modern body. It takes a good pattern drafter to take a pattern from an historical corset and adapt it for a modern body. I recommend a custom pattern - made from your measurements - if you choose to build your own corset. The Fitting Room offers custom patterns as well as custom corsets.

See you all soon, sporting the latest fashions from years gone by!

Marie

Here are links to some of our local Seattle costume related groups:

http://wwwSITUSeattle.com

http://www.BRCG.org

http://www.ravenrook.com

(don’t forget to play the game with my Tarot of the Tailor cards on this site)

Venice....

I thought you might like to see something a little different – I received a custom order for Agatha’s shorty corset from the outstanding Web Comic –  Girl Genius – http://www.girlgeniusonline.com  

As the authors are my friends, I had their permission to use their design, and show it to you – it is always polite to ask before copying the designs of others…. (hint hint)

Agatha

Now I can’t wait to make the tool belt corset for me!

Edit this entry.

Happy Holidays  -  I hope wheather you are celebrating Christmas, Hanukka,  Solstice, or the Return of the Flying Spagetti Monster, that you are well and warm and happy.    I just wanted to remind everyone that I have gift certificates available for custom corsets and supplies.  It makes shoping easier and you can still surprise your loved ones with a great gift.  

Comming soon, I”m going to learn to post pictures on this site, and I have an article on corset wearing at historical events,  and  ‘How to choose a good corset’.   But first I need to get my Christmas cards done….

Blessings on you all,

Marie

Hello Blog readers - Here I go – feet first into the world of blogging.   This is my test to see if all this works before I post real content, but I would like to take this oportunity to thank you all for your patience while my web page has been under consturction.  I think most of the bugs are worked out now, and thanks to a very competent web designer – Anita at Lolalu design – I think it all looks fabulous and I can go back to my sewing machine with no worries. 

New articles comming soon, as yet, you can’t reply to the blog, but feel free to contact me  Marie@fittingroomcorsets.com